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Knitting Techniques:- knitting is generally defined as a fabric produced by intermeshing loops of yarn, and a skilled knitter can create the most intricate and
beautiful patterns using loop and color combinations. The knitter can also shape each component to make a perfectly fitted garment. Some of the knitters skills have been copied by machines which produce a cheaper
and more consistent product, but the craft skills should not be lost.
Hand knitting:- This is the traditional way of knitting using “knitting needles” (also referred to as knitting pins). These needles come in different thickness’ depending
on the thickness of yarn and the desired effect. Each country has its own system of defining needles. There is now an effort to standardize the specification by referring to the needle diameter expressed in
millimeters’, so for our hand knitting we would use
Double knitting 4 mm needles
Aran weight 6 mm needles
Double Aran 9mm needles
Treble aran 12mm needles
We also have 15, 20 and 25mm needles (that is 1 inch thick) which are used when specially requested by customers for ultra heavy knitwear.
Hand framed knitting (also hand loomed):- This is knitwear produced using latch needles on a machine bed. Each row of knitting is produced by the knitter manually moving
the machine carriage across the needle bed. Between rows the knitter can present different
colors to selected needles to form a desired pattern known as hand intarsia, or move stitches to different needles to
give a stitch pattern as with “hand loomed arans”.
Intarsia knitting:- a knitted fabric containing two or more
colors, each area of color knitted from a separate yarn which is contained entirely within that area.
Hand intarsia or true intarsia
is produced on a hand frame and the knitter interweaves the yarns to avoid holes and there is only one
color on each needle. Automatic machines cannot interweave the yarns and joints are achieved by overlapping the
colors on the boundary needles. This gives a double yarn thickness at the
color vertical joins, as well as the second
color showing through.
Jacquard knitting:- A term borrowed from the weaving industry and refers to the mechanism that enables needles to knit one
color and ignore other colors to give a
desired pattern. The ignored colors float behind the stitch as in weaving where the weft yarn floats over several warp yarns to give a desired pattern. These floating yarns if too long can cause problems and
catch in jewelry and watch straps etc. Now sometimes refereed to “true jacquard” to distinguish it from the jacquards produced on an automatic machine.
On modern automatic machines the floats are knitted to give, in effect double thickness material and is known as “milano backing”. The fabric looses some softness and the feel on
the yarn.
Machine knitting:- This is knitwear produced on an automatic machine, normally with latch needles on a
needle bed and a carriage being motor driven to form the stitches. These machines have become very sophisticated and can now produce multicoloured jacquard patterns and stitch patterns that are hard to distinguish from hand knitting.
Cut & Sew knitwear:- Automatic machines are at their most efficient when producing a length of knitted fabric, and not a shaped component. For this reason about 99% of
commercially available knitwear is produced from lengths of knitted fabric which is then cut to shape and sewn together; hence the term “cut and sewn” knitwear.
Fully Fashioned knitwear:- This is the way knitwear was always produced with each component to the correct size and shape and then the components sewn together. The machinery to produce components to the correct shape are much more expensive and the production time much longer, so most commercially available knitwear is not produced this way.
Textile Yarns:- Can be split into naturally occurring fibers and man-made fibbers, although sometimes the distinction is hard to define.
Natural fibers
Wools:- Strictly speaking this refers to the thread produced from the hair (fleece) of sheep only and comes in different qualities (botany, lambs wool,
geelong,
Shetland etc.). The thread made from other animals is either referred to as hair (mohair, camel hair, etc.) or by the animal itself (angora, alpaca, cashmere, etc.).
Silk:- Probably the only animal thread in common use that is not hair but the covering of the silkworms cocoon.
Vegetable Yarns:- The most common vegetable yarns are linen, cotton and hemp, although vegetable products are also chemically treated to produce products like rayon
and rubber and could be defined as man-made fibers.
Fancy yarns:- This refers to special structure yarns such as boucle. chenille, snarls etc. These are constructed by deliberately causing loops or trapping tufts
between the main yarn and a binder yarn. The binders are normally a strong synthetic such as nylon, but the binder is not normally included in the resultant yarn, which would still be classed as 100% the main
yarn.
Man-made fibers
Synthetic polymers:- These are normally known by a trademarked name depending which chemical company supplied the basic polymers although some names such as nylon,
acrylics and lycra are in common use. These are much stronger than natural fibers and frequently blended with natural yarns to produce a stronger yarn that can be machined at higher speeds, so decreasing
production time. The proportion of each yarn content (by weight) has to be stated on the label.
Garment weight:- This normally refers to the thickness of the knitwear and depends on the thickness (or count) of the yarn. There are a large number of systems used for specifying yarn thickness but efforts are now made to use the “new metric” (nm) system as standard. In the new metric (nm) system the count number indicates the length in kilometers of one kilo of yarn, or meters/gram, so a gram of 11nm yarn would be 11 meters long, and a gram of 1.6nm yarn (normal aran weight) would be 1.6meters long. Two ends of 1.6nm yarn knitted together would have a resultant count of 0.8nm. Most knitting yarns consist of several lengths twisted together and for hand knitting the yarn is referred to by the number of lengths (ply) used, so one would use a 2ply. 3ply, or 4ply yarn each ply being 15 -24nm thick.
The needle selection for hand knitting depends on the thickness of yarn, how tight one wishes to knit and the personal knitting characteristics of the knitter. An average aran
knitter would use 6mm needles, but a tight knitter should use 7mm needles to get the same result: both would go down to 4mm needles to knit a tight rib or cuff. However needle selection is an indication of the
weight of garment being produced.
Machine knitting is normally referred to by the gauge of the machine and here again these are a multitude of different systems but the most commonly used is to specify the
needles/inch. The traditional knitwear gauging system was to specify needles/1.5”, so a 12gauge garment would have been knitted on a machine with 8needles/inch.
To tie these different systems of specifying garment weight together they are very loosely as follows:-
| Yarn
Weight - hand knitting reference |
Resultant
yarn count in nm |
Needle
size in mm |
Machine
gauge in npi |
Common
|
|
1 ply |
9 - 40 |
Sewing
and crochet |
12 - 15 |
Sewing and lace |
| 2 ply |
9 - 12 |
2 |
10 |
Cashmere |
| 3 ply |
6 - 9 |
2.5 |
8 |
Lambswool |
| 4 ply |
4.5 - 6 |
3 |
5 |
Men's Knitwear |
| double knitting |
2.3 - 3.8 |
4 |
3 |
Outerwear |
| Aran weight |
1.4 - 1.9 |
6 |
- |
Outerwear |
| Double Aran |
0.7 - 1.0 |
9 |
- |
Outerwear |
| Treble Aran |
0.5 - 0.7 |
12 |
- |
Outerwear |
We have even
thicker needles for special requirements (see Very
Heavy Knits)
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